9 ft sleepers were used prior to 1914. After this, their length was reduced to 8 ft 6 ins, although much existing track would have lasted for some years - especially in sidings.
A pack contains sufficient timbers to make a turnout. If timbers that are longer than those provided are needed, it is usual practice to cut two to the appropriate length ensuring that the joint is under one of the chairs of the common crossing.
This is the plastic sleepers (with moulded chairs included) that are linked together with webs to form short panels, as used in the making of our Flexi-track. In effect, the track without the rail!
7mm Copperclad Strip
7ZC101A copper clad strips provide for the same rail height as the chair base, and can be used glued down to a sleeper to provide a soldering point - some say this is essential at crossing vees and 'K' crossings.
The 1.6mm thick copper clad strips are equivalent to our standard sleepering + chair base and so can be used alongside other C+L products. For example, you could use C+L Flexitrack for the running rails, but use copper clad strips to build your turnouts. You can then use running rail chairs cosmetically and once you have painted and weathered the turnout, it should blend in.
7mm wide strips equate to a scale 12 inches and are used for building turnouts.
Please note: for the thicker material, we give the thickness as being 1.6mm. Due to manufacturing variations, some recent supplies have been 1.55mm and even 1.5mm thick. The difference is nominal and will cause no problems.
'Exactoply' Sleepers & Timbers
The 'Exactoply' sleepers and turnout timbers shown below (listed last) have been sawn cut rather than laser cut. and therefore some have slightly rougher edges, unline the extremely straight and clean cut of laser cut products. The lazer cut version are currently being made but in the meantime we have listed the sawn cut at a much lower price. The sawn cut would be suitable for trackwork that needed to be less than perfect such as industrial lines, or alternatively a quick rub over with some fine sandpaper and they would look like the laser version!